Underground greenhouse with a high level of groundwater. Underground thermos greenhouse - the principle of operation and construction with your own hands

One of the most rational options for the construction of a capital greenhouse is an underground greenhouse. It is built like a thermos and has a lot of advantages. In order for the building to have all the advantages, it is necessary to know the features of its construction.

Do-it-yourself underground greenhouses have the following advantages of their construction:

year-round design option;
no dependence on the weather;
high efficiency;
efficient use of solar energy (used for additional heating of the building);
in such a design, even exotic crops for a particular locality can be grown;
durability and reliability;
excellent light transmission parameters of the roof;
good thermal insulation performance of the room;
versatility.

A greenhouse in the ground has these advantages, both without heating and with it.

A ruined type of greenhouse has only two negative points: a rather high labor intensity of manufacture, as well as the need for a reliable ventilation system. But if you approach the work correctly, then these design flaws will not bring much trouble.

Video "Dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening"

In this video you will learn how to build a dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening.

Design features

An underground greenhouse is a structure that is partially organized in the ground. Thanks to this design, a thermos effect occurs. It manifests itself if the greenhouse was buried at least 1 m into the ground. In this case, the temperature indicator inside such a dugout will be in the range of + 3 ... + 14 ° C.

If the building is deepened by 2.2–2.4 m, then during the year the temperature inside will be kept at almost the same level. At the same time, the main task in such buildings is to maintain the temperature indicator and organize irrigation.

If you are going to make an underground greenhouse, then you need to correctly calculate the level of penetration into the ground. This parameter is determined based on the depth of groundwater, as well as winter freezing. Based on these parameters, one can easily understand whether it is rational given type greenhouses. In swampy areas, as well as with a close occurrence of groundwater, an in-depth version of greenhouses is not used.

It should be noted that the soil freezing factor has the main influence on the cultivation of plants. The beds with crops in such structures should be located below the level of seasonal freezing existing in the region. Therefore, the lower level of the deepening should be between the indicator of groundwater occurrence and soil freezing.

To date, there are two types of earthen greenhouse:

underground. In this case, a depth is selected that allows maintenance of plant beds completely underground. Inside the greenhouse, there should be a ladder at the entrance wall, as well as passages between areas (where a certain group of plants is grown), along which a person can move without bending;
buried. Here, the maintenance of the structure is carried out without a ladder, from the soil surface. This lifts the roof.

Depending on the characteristics of the relief and the available area, a do-it-yourself greenhouse underground can be horizontal (the height of all walls is the same) and inclined. Such greenhouses in terms of the area occupied are trench (considerable length with minimum width) or pits.

A greenhouse in the ground can be used to grow fruits, berries, mushrooms, vegetables, seedlings and flowers. Due to the design features, such a greenhouse can be placed in Siberia or in any other region of our country.

How to DIY

A do-it-yourself recessed greenhouse is built in several stages. To build it, you will need the following tools:

perforator;
a hammer;
Bulgarian;
shovel;
construction mixer and vibrator for concrete;
electric drill;
hacksaw, knife and scissors;
Master OK;
putty knife;
paint brush;
level, plumb and tape measure.

The Scottish (buried) type of greenhouse is started by digging a foundation pit.

foundation pit

To create a greenhouse effect inside the greenhouse, the depth of the pit should be 1.9–2.2 (2.5) m. The width of the structure should not be more than 4.8–5.2 m. If you organize the structure wide, then the insolation parameters will deteriorate and the need for heating will also increase.

The length is determined depending on the free area available on the site for construction. How much space you allocate for a greenhouse, this will be its length.

The pit being erected is recommended to be oriented in the east-west direction. The sides of the pit should be leveled as much as possible. This is necessary to make high-quality walls. Each side of the building must be properly aligned so that there are no problems with the organization of the roof.

Foundation and walls

When you have dug a foundation pit for your greenhouse, you can proceed to the foundation bay. Usually the base is poured around the perimeter of the structure and looks like a tape. When creating a foundation of this type, reinforced concrete should be used. The optimal thickness of the base is 30–50 cm (depending on the size of the greenhouse). As a result, the floor in the center of the building remains earthen.

The side walls can be built from wood, polystyrene foam blocks or cellular concrete blocks. These materials have excellent thermal insulation parameters and are light in weight.

If gardening is year-round, then the level of the walls must be chosen so that they rise above the snow cover by at least 0.5 m. The optimal height of the walls for such structures is determined in individually for each region.

Roof installation

To make a roof in a recessed greenhouse, it is necessary to install supports in the center of the building. Wooden beams will be laid on them and the walls. A ridge beam should be installed in the center of the building. After that, transverse ribs are mounted from the bars. On the resulting frame, honeycomb-type polycarbonate sheets are installed.

The covering material is fixed on the beams with the help of special thermal washers equipped with rubber seals. During installation, the hand must be firm, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. To improve the thermal insulation of a greenhouse in cold regions, the roof should be organized from two layers of polycarbonate.

Warming and heating

To insulate a buried greenhouse, the surface of the walls should be covered with a waterproofing film. Thermal insulation is already mounted on top of it. As a heater, polystyrene foam or mineral wool is most often used. You can also use special polymeric heat-insulating films equipped with a layer of foil. They allow you to accumulate heat inside the room due to the reflection of sunlight. If necessary, grow heat-loving plants equipped with floor heating.

Thus, a buried greenhouse is built. With proper construction, such a building will have all the advantages described above. After the construction is completed, the greenhouse can be immediately used for its intended purpose.

Among the huge variety of greenhouses, it is difficult to choose those that will allow you to get a good harvest even in winter. However, underground greenhouses, which are popular with the peoples of India, are being improved and are gaining popularity in Russian latitudes with a cold climate precisely because of their unique properties.

The essence of this design is that its main part is underground and the plants located there are provided with a favorable microclimate all year round. . The deeper the underground greenhouse is located, the more stable temperature regime during the whole year.

do-it-yourself using improvised means, using polycarbonate, glass or film as a material. . Such a greenhouse is very economical with financial side and the benefits are huge.

Advantages and disadvantages

As positive aspects underground greenhouse are the following:

Without connecting additional heating, the temperature in winter can reach more than 10 degrees Celsius;
Natural coolness that occurs in summer for grown crops;
The conditions in the underground greenhouse allow you to grow both vegetable and berry crops;
The low cost of the building itself and the possibility of saving on heating and lighting;
Excellent light transmission, in which the sun's rays are distributed evenly.

Of the negative sides can be identified:

The complexity of making a structure with your own hands;
The need for reliable ventilation;
Possession of skills in conducting communication systems.

Building options

Depending on the depth at which the greenhouse will be equipped, you will get a buried greenhouse, or an underground one. Before starting the construction of a structure with your own hands, you should evaluate the properties of the soil: how much it freezes in winter and what is the level of groundwater. If groundwater is not deep, then it is hardly possible to build an underground greenhouse, since it should be located much higher than their level. While when the soil freezes, the depth of the beds increases. Thus, the level of deepening fluctuates between groundwater and frozen ground.

If the greenhouse will be located completely underground, then it must have stairs and walkways, as well as the possibility of full maintenance of the planted crops. And the recessed greenhouse is simplified by the absence of additional outbuildings, since the only way to provide care for the plants is to raise the roof.

Also, the choice of the type of construction is influenced by the surface topography and the size of the site. Based on this, it is possible to make the greenhouse horizontal with equal wall heights or inclined if the terrain is uneven. In the latter case, it is important that the slope be directed to the maximum penetration of sunlight, for this the northern part of the structure should be slightly higher than the southern one (by 15-20 degrees).

a greenhouse of a pit type is being built, if the site is narrow, then a trench type of greenhouse is suitable - not wide, but long.

DIY underground greenhouse

For the work construction works you will need the following materials and tools: cement, shovel and bayonet shovel, mortar container, trowel, plaster, polycarbonate or film, thermal blocks, nails and self-tapping screws, thermal insulation film, polystyrene foam, hammer, paint, perforator, grinder, drill, level, spatula , scissors.

Despite the fact that a high-quality greenhouse requires considerable effort during construction, during its operation they will more than pay off.

At the initial stage, it is important to correctly draw up a project and drawing. When planning, consider the following points:

The location of the structure relative to the cardinal points: put the greenhouse from the east to the west - this method will ensure maximum penetration of light inside;
Consider the dimensions and depth: focusing on the freezing of the soil, the depth is recommended within 2 meters, the width is not more than 5, otherwise the heat preservation will not be as effective;
A recessed greenhouse needs thermal insulation of walls and foundations, an elevated structure is insulated on the north side;
Where the structure is insulated, reflective coatings are applied;
Consider arranging lighting and ventilation, as well as a high-quality drainage system.

After the design work, you can start digging a pit in the place chosen for the greenhouse, the standard shape for underground structures is rectangular. To obtain high-quality walls, the sides of the pit must be well aligned.

The second stage is the preparation of the foundation. The trench is laid out in blocks along the perimeter and poured with concrete or cement mortar.

For waterproofing, roofing material is used, laid between the soil and the walls.

After the formwork has been removed and the underground walls have been built, work is carried out on the construction of above-ground walls from thermoblocks or bricks. Their height can reach up to a meter.

It should be remembered that the design must be of high quality insulated. To do this, the surface of the walls is covered with a heat-insulating film with foil - this modern material reflects sunlight, thereby retaining heat.

The next stage of work is the construction of the roof. It is more reliable to use modern material - polycarbonate, it is durable, frost-resistant and transmits ultraviolet light. Polycarbonate sheets are inserted into the frame of the roof and above-ground part of the greenhouse. The roof must have vents, or rise to ventilate the greenhouse. All cracks and gaps should be sealed with mounting foam.

Interior arrangement

After construction work, you should do the internal arrangement of the greenhouse. In addition to creating beds with fertile soil, you need to think over the system of lighting, watering, additional heating. To get a rich harvest, you should not save money by purchasing material for communications.

To install lighting under the ceiling, a line is laid, constructed from fittings or boards, on which lighting structures can be fixed. For plants, LED lamps are more suitable.

If funds allow, it is possible to build additional heating for year-round crops. . The northern part of the structure is covered with a dark film, and the light does not penetrate into the greenhouse. In order for the heat from the collector to be uniform, fans are installed in underground greenhouses, from which pipes are laid to the beds.

In order to irrigate in buried greenhouses, a high-quality drainage system with ditches should be organized.

In order for enough light to penetrate into the do-it-yourself underground greenhouse and the polycarbonate is not damaged, in winter it is necessary to regularly clean the snow from the roof.

A correctly and qualitatively erected structure with your own hands will last a long time and will please you with a good harvest throughout the year.

The essence of this design is that its main part is underground and the plants located there are provided with a favorable microclimate all year round. This greenhouse is also called a thermos greenhouse because of the property of storing heat underground. The deeper the underground greenhouse is located, the more stable the temperature regime throughout the year.

Another underground greenhouse attracts by the fact that it can be built with your own hands using improvised means, using polycarbonate, glass or film as a material. If other models need material for thermal insulation, then there are enough walls made of earth. Such a greenhouse is very economical from the financial side, and the benefits are huge.

Advantages and disadvantages

The following are the positive aspects of an underground greenhouse:

Without connecting additional heating, the temperature in winter can reach more than 10 degrees Celsius;
The natural coolness that occurs underground in the summer is favorable for the crops grown;
The conditions in the underground greenhouse allow you to grow both vegetable and berry crops;
The low cost of the building itself and the possibility of saving on heating and lighting;
Excellent light transmission, in which the sun's rays are distributed evenly.

Of the negative sides can be identified:

The complexity of making a structure with your own hands;
The need for reliable ventilation;
Possession of skills in conducting communication systems.

Building options

If the greenhouse will be located completely underground, then it must have stairs and walkways, as well as the possibility of full maintenance of the planted crops.

And the recessed greenhouse is simplified by the absence of additional outbuildings, since the only way to provide care for the plants is to raise the roof.

Also, the choice of the type of construction is influenced by the surface topography and the size of the site.

Based on this, it is possible to make the greenhouse horizontal with equal wall heights or inclined if the terrain is uneven. In the latter case, it is important that the slope be directed to the maximum penetration of sunlight, for this the northern part of the structure should be slightly higher than the southern one (by 15-20 degrees).

If the territory allows, then a greenhouse of a pit type is being built, if the site is narrow, then a trench type of greenhouse is suitable - not wide, but long.

DIY underground greenhouse

For construction work, you will need the following materials and tools: cement, shovel and bayonet shovel, mortar container, trowel, plaster, polycarbonate or film, thermal blocks, nails and self-tapping screws, thermal insulation film, foam plastic, hammer, paint, perforator, grinder, drill , level, spatula, scissors.

Despite the fact that a high-quality greenhouse requires considerable effort during construction, during its operation they will more than pay off.

At the initial stage, it is important to correctly draw up a project and drawing. When planning, consider the following points:

The location of the structure relative to the cardinal points: put the greenhouse from the east to the west - this method will ensure maximum penetration of light inside;
Consider the dimensions and depth: focusing on the freezing of the soil, the depth is recommended within 2 meters, the width is not more than 5, otherwise the heat preservation will not be as effective;
A recessed greenhouse needs thermal insulation of walls and foundations, an elevated structure is insulated on the north side;
Where the structure is insulated, reflective coatings are applied;
Consider arranging lighting and ventilation, as well as a high-quality drainage system.

The second stage is the preparation of the foundation. The trench is laid out in blocks along the perimeter and poured with concrete or cement mortar.

For waterproofing, roofing material is used, laid between the soil and the walls.

Interior arrangement

After construction work, you should do the internal arrangement of the greenhouse. In addition to creating beds with fertile soil, you need to think over a system of lighting, watering, and additional heating. To get a rich harvest, you should not save money by purchasing material for communications.

To install lighting under the ceiling, a line is laid, constructed from fittings or boards, on which lighting structures can be fixed. For plants, LED lamps are more suitable.

If funds allow, it is possible to build additional heating for year-round crops. It can be a floor heating system or a solar collector, easily made by hand. The northern part of the structure is covered with a dark film, and the light does not penetrate into the greenhouse. In order for the heat from the collector to be uniform, fans are installed in underground greenhouses, from which pipes are laid to the beds.

In order to irrigate in buried greenhouses, a high-quality drainage system with ditches should be organized.

In order for enough light to penetrate into the do-it-yourself underground greenhouse and the polycarbonate is not damaged, in winter it is necessary to regularly clean the snow from the roof.

A correctly and qualitatively erected structure with your own hands will last a long time and will please you with a good harvest throughout the year.

Home Construction Simple winter greenhouse without special heating

Simple winter greenhouse without special heating

For many years I tested different greenhouses and came to the conclusion that they all have one, but a significant drawback - they require a large amount of fuel to heat them.

winter greenhouse without special heating I have been using for several years. I grow many types of crops and even subtropical and tropical plants in it.

We had to figure out how to get rid of these costs."Shoveled" a mountain of literature, including old gardening textbooks, and stumbled upon interesting fact. It turns out that in ancient times, greenhouses were made partially deepened into the ground. This resulted in significant fuel savings.

Taking on the principle"deepening", built his own greenhouse, which does not need to be heated (see picture). Heat comes from the earth and partly from the sun's rays. True, there is an indispensable condition: the depth must correspond to at least twice the value of the soil freezing index in a given area. Otherwise, you will not achieve the desired thermal regime.

dug out"pit" along the length from north to south, all the soil poured onto the western side. Actually, the length of the greenhouse can be any (I have it -10 meters). The side walls were well whitewashed with lime - this is both disinfection and an improvement in the light regime.

Overlapping made of bars and poles at a distance of 40 to 60 centimeters. The thickness of the bars and the distance between them was determined in such a way that they would hold the snow load. I chose a thicker film for the upper floor and fixed it with planks nailed to the bars. On the inside I attached another layer of film.

When severe frosts begin, somewhere at the end of December I stretch the third film layer. I cling to it at the top of the bars, and fix the lower ends below the freezing level of the soil.

In these conditions the unfrozen soil of the lower and side layers gives off its heat to the greenhouse. I don’t remove snow in severe frosts, only in some places I clean it off, I make “windows”. In early spring, I remove the “fur coat” completely.

This is how my greenhouse is set up in which I do not use an ounce of fuel. Even in the most severe frosts, when it is minus 32 outside, in the "winter house" under three layers of film the temperature does not drop below 0 degrees.

This is how I grow orange, tangerine, mimosa, roses, pomegranate, persimmon, tea, medlar, lavender and more. In spring and autumn, onions, parsley, and seedlings of garden crops grow well there. True, some "delicate" and tender plants have to pay a little more attention, to create a favorable regime of illumination and air humidity for them. But this is, as they say, trifles.

N. Tymush, Vinnytsia region

Back to the table of contents - Construction

Phased installation work and features of self-construction of an underground greenhouse

The underground greenhouse is known to few The underground greenhouse is known to few. Modern gardeners annually seek new methods and technologies that are different from traditional ones. Summer residents who live in cold climatic conditions, are trying to use the most unusual approaches that help extend the growing season and reduce the cost of building materials and heating.

Features of the building

Buried greenhouses are among the best and most rational options in the field of capital greenhouse structures and are considered to be very promising. Such a greenhouse-dugout perfectly corresponds to the idea of thermal preservation, which, thanks to optimal depth indicators, is stable throughout the year.

The use of such a thermal factor when constructing a greenhouse in the ground contributes to huge savings in heating costs during the cold season. In addition, structures of this type compare favorably with structures of a similar purpose by the ease of construction with their own hands, ease of maintenance and a stable microclimate, which is most significant for the growth and fruiting of crops.

Most popular options

The most popular alternative for expensive and energy-intensive glass greenhouses is the underground greenhouse "Walipini", which came to us from the Indians inhabiting the cold mountainous regions. South America. The Walipini greenhouse facility uses natural resources to provide stable heat and quality lighting all year round.

The Walipini greenhouse facility uses natural resources to provide stable heat and quality lighting all year round.

The simplest type of greenhouse located in the ground is a rectangular recess, in which plastic or film is used as a covering. The insulated air space created under such a coating contributes to the formation of an ideal microclimate. Such buried greenhouses are quite easy to do with your own hands, and the sun's rays, penetrating deep into the greenhouse, have a positive effect on garden crops. Greenhouses buried in the ground consume much less energy compared to ground-based greenhouse structures. The most effective models are underground greenhouses with a length of six meters, equipped with plastic wrap and PVC pipes.

Main advantages

Greenhouses, buried to a sufficient depth, have some advantages, which makes them in demand not only among experienced summer residents, but also for beginners:

in winter, temperature indicators can be more than ten degrees, provided that there is no additional heating of the greenhouse space;
on hot summer days, most plants need coolness, which freely occurs in this type of greenhouse underground;
it is absolutely easy to make a construction with your own hands, and classic schemes and drawings for construction are more than available;
trench greenhouses are ideal for year-round cultivation of not only vegetables, but also many berry crops;
the low cost of construction is due to the ability to use an affordable and budget option for building and finishing materials.

The insulated airspace created under the coating of the film or transparent plastic contributes to the formation of an ideal microclimate. The sun's rays, penetrating deep into the greenhouse, favorably affect garden crops

It should be borne in mind that do-it-yourself underground greenhouses need proper arrangement of waterproofing and drainage systems, as well as ventilation.

Thermos greenhouse: recessed structure (video)

Necessary materials and tools

For the arrangement of a full-fledged greenhouse structure. which is a recessed structure, you should use the standard set for performing this kind of work building materials and tools:

ready-mixed cement or cement;
when replacing the cement mixture with cement, sand should be used;
shovel and bayonet shovels;
a container or any convenient container for diluting the working solution;
construction trowel;
plaster mixture;
sheet foam;
standard thermoblocks;
sheet polycarbonate or high-quality polyethylene film;
film for thermal insulation works and construction tape;
protective impregnating composition for wood lumber;
galvanized nails and screws;
hammer and pliers;
wood frame paint.

It should be borne in mind that do-it-yourself underground greenhouses need proper arrangement of waterproofing and drainage systems, as well as ventilation

Installation steps

When performing a recessed greenhouse structure with your own hands, you should carefully take all measurements and carry out all work in accordance with the planned plan and completed drawings. The standard design is built in several successive stages.

Choosing a place for the location of the building and marking the dimensions according to the drawings and plan. The optimal parameters for the depth of the underground part are two meters, and the surface part can reach one meter. The width in the standard design cannot exceed five meters.
Digging a trench or pit in accordance with the markup, followed by pouring the foundation. To this end, the perimeter of the dug trench should be laid out in blocks, followed by pouring concrete or cement mixture.
Removal of the formwork followed by the erection of the walls of the greenhouse structure from a material with positive thermal insulation characteristics by one's own hands. The best option is the use of hollow polystyrene-based thermoblocks. All wall masonry should be reinforced with metal.
The process of wall insulation, in which block joints must be carefully coated with a high-quality waterproofing solution, and all cavities must be filled with special mounting foam.
To achieve the maximum insulating effect, a foil thermal insulation film is fastened to the inner wall side.

For the purpose of year-round heating, it is advisable to think over the installation of underfloor heating under the screed, as well as pay attention to the artificial lighting device in the greenhouse structure. At the final stage, the roof frame is built under the covering material.

Choosing a place for the location of the building and marking the dimensions according to the drawings and plan. The optimal parameters for the depth of the underground part are two meters, and the surface part can reach one meter. Width in standard design cannot exceed five meters

If the construction of the underground greenhouse is done correctly, then the built structure must have the following parameters and qualities:

the presence of a bucket shape like \__/;
a slight elevation of the northern wall above the southern one;
slope indicators - no more than forty degrees;
strong and heat-insulated walls;
the presence of high-quality drainage ditches;
reliable roofing.

Greenhouse without heating (video)

If all the above requirements are met, the durable construction of the greenhouse, made by oneself, will work on the principle of a thermos and delight the owners with a consistently high yield all year round.

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More information

The soil tends to maintain a constant temperature - for example, if in the air it is close to 0 ° C, then in the soil, approximately (+ 10 ° C). This natural phenomenon is often used to build greenhouses that are sunk into the ground, which are called earthen or buried. Further, issues related to the features of earthen greenhouses, with the stages of their construction are considered.

The peculiarity of the buildings is the depth in the ground up to 1.5 meters, and the height of its above-ground part is one meter. A compact greenhouse, recessed into the ground, located in areas with little freezing of the soil, is built at no great cost. Here it will be possible to grow greens, seedlings with minimal costs for space heating. Almost all such structures serve for many years of use.

Depending on the area where the greenhouse is located, the type of materials for building walls, the structure of the roof, buried greenhouses are:

Roof shape:

lean-to;

gable;

cylindrical.

By wall material:

brick;

concrete;

wooden.

With earth walls.

Greenhouse features

The simplest type of in-depth greenhouse is a rectangular shape, with a film (see) or plastic as a coating.

This insulated air space provides an ideal microclimate. Recessed greenhouses are quite easy to make with your own hands, and the sun's rays penetrating deep into the greenhouse create an optimal microclimate that favorably affects plants.

The table shows the pros and cons of greenhouses deepened into the ground:

Advantages

disadvantages

With a small depth of soil freezing, the construction of an in-depth greenhouse does not require too large investments.
Saving money when heating a room in the winter.
Possibility of functioning at any weather.
You can grow heat-loving vegetables, flowers (see), horticultural crops in regions with low temperatures in winter. They even grow exotic plants.
Long service life.
In recessed areas, a full-fledged crop is obtained in a short summer.

Winter options for greenhouses require capital construction, because of this, their price increases significantly.
For the construction, it is necessary to select an area with suitable soil. It is not advisable to build greenhouses where groundwater, quicksand and other soil features are close to the surface of the earth.
It is necessary to install a good drainage system around the building to prevent flooding from precipitation.
It is necessary to provide a high-quality ventilation system.

Choice of construction site

When choosing a place to build a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account the following main points:

Wind direction. With the predominance of gusty cold winds in the zone, additional protection of the structure should be performed. Despite such costs, in the future there will be savings on heating. A fence can be used as additional protection.

Tip: You can not place an additional fence very close to the greenhouse. With a ridge height of, for example, 2.5 meters, the distance to the fence from the greenhouse should not be less than 8 meters. This is due to the fact that the wind flow that has come across an obstacle will go up and cool the structure.

Light. It is very important that the greenhouse has the maximum amount of light during the entire daylight hours. This is essential for efficient crop growth.

Accessibility to the building. When building a greenhouse for long-term and permanent operation, it is necessary to provide a convenient entrance to it.

Greenhouse construction

To properly equip a full-fledged greenhouse structure with a recessed structure, you should use a standard set of building tools and materials:

cement mortar.

When replacing the mortar with cement, additional sand is required.

Shovels - shovel and bayonet.

Capacity for diluting the composition.

Master OK.

Mixture for plaster.

Styrofoam sheets.

Standard thermoblocks.

Polycarbonate sheets or polyethylene film.

Construction tape.

Film, for thermal insulation of the structure.

Impregnation, for protection of wooden lumber.

Fasteners galvanized: nails and self-tapping screws.

Pliers.

A hammer.

Paint, for coloring a framework from a tree.

Tip: When arranging an underground greenhouse, it is necessary to properly perform the waterproofing and drainage systems, and ventilation.

Installation steps

Before proceeding with the work, you should carefully watch the video in this article. The construction of a greenhouse structure begins with careful measurements of the area, and then the work is carried out according to the planned plan and developed drawings.

The instruction for the construction of the structure suggests that the construction be carried out in the following sequence:

A place is chosen for the location of the building.

The location of the building is marked according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings and the plan.

The standard width of the structure is no more than five meters.

Dig trenches or pits according to the markup.

The foundation is being poured. To do this, the perimeter is laid out in blocks and poured with concrete or cement mortar.

After the concrete has dried, the formwork is removed.

The walls of the structure are erected from a material that has positive thermal insulation characteristics.

The preferred option for walls is the use of hollow polystyrene-based thermoblocks.

Tip: When laying walls, they should be reinforced with vertical metal elements. In this case, deepened greenhouses into the ground will acquire greater strength.

Walls are being insulated.

To do this, the joints between the blocks are carefully smeared with a high-quality waterproofing solution, and all cavities are filled with a special mounting foam. To get the maximum insulating effect, it is necessary to attach a foil thermal insulation film to the inside of the wall.

In order to heat the greenhouse all year round, it is advisable to arrange warm floors under the screed in it, to make artificial lighting.

The roof frame is being built.

Construction of a shed greenhouse

To reduce the cost of an in-depth structure, you can use the budget option for its construction. In this case, the frame is made of wooden racks in three rows, as in the photo.

Construction order:

The pit is digging.

Racks are installed. Wherein:

at the northern wall there are pillars, the length of which is 1.5 meters;

in the middle row of racks 1.7 meters long;

from the south wall - 0.9 meters.

The extreme rows of racks along the entire length are sheathed with slabs, and in the middle row, sheathing with slabs is performed to the height of the ridge. This forms a notch with a depth of 0.9 meters, which is filled with biofuel for 0.7 meters, and a layer of earth is poured on top, up to 15 centimeters thick.

The walls located on the north and south sides are sprinkled with earth.

The slope of the roof, directed to the south, is covered with greenhouse frames.

Tip: To prevent heat loss through the roof, it is necessary to throw mats on the glass at night. They can be made of reeds, straw, film or even paper.

Greenhouses recessed into the ground are structures whose feature is the use of soil as a natural insulation. This significantly saves money on heating the greenhouse. Such greenhouses are very popular among amateur gardeners and professionals.

The greenhouse thermos perfectly performs its functions even at the lowest temperatures, therefore it can be used in some of the northern regions of the country. This feature was known even in Tsarist Russia, even then southern crops were grown underground.

Today, do-it-yourself winter thermos greenhouses are built by homeowners who have decided to turn to the experience of their predecessors. Let's look at what kind of greenhouses they are, on what principle they work and are built.

Earth greenhouse thermos

Underground greenhouses are suitable for growing not only annual crops. Perennials, including low-growing hybrid trees, feel great here.

Greenhouse thermos: what is it, on what principle does it work

Ordinary greenhouses are characterized by diurnal temperature fluctuations: during the day it is higher, at night it decreases, and in the early morning it is the lowest. This does not happen in a buried greenhouse, since the earthen walls work like a thermos - hence, in fact, the name of buildings of this type came from. This effect provides significant savings in resources used for space heating. Less heat loss - less heating required.

It may seem that because of the walls that go into the ground, the thermos greenhouse receives less sunlight. This is not true. Although its roof is not entirely flat, 99% of the sun's rays enter through it, which is quite enough for the normal development of plants. At the same time, the roof area is not so large that heat losses through it are significant.

Winter greenhouse thermos, photo of the aerial part

Earthen thermoses greenhouses are of two types:

Underground. The walls are completely recessed underground, often to a depth of 2 m. They have a large area, they can even be used for year-round maintenance of perennial heat-loving plants. The maximum depth depends on the level of groundwater.
Buried. The pit has a depth of 40-60 cm, the walls rise above the ground to a height of 50-110 cm. This is the easiest option, but the building will have low heat-saving properties.

Note:the slopes of the roof of the greenhouse, deepened into the ground, are very gentle. This can create problems in winter when there is a lot of snow. You should carefully monitor the surface of the roof, clean it in time so that deformation and collapse of the frame do not occur. On the other hand, the low landing of the building in the ground makes it invulnerable to wind loads.

Thermos greenhouse, in-depth design drawing

Construction of a thermos greenhouse: digging a pit

Its energy efficiency directly depends on the depth of the excavation of an earthen greenhouse: the deeper, the better. It is difficult to say the exact figures now, since the depth of freezing of the earth varies across the country. However, if we talk about the middle lane, then the optimal depth of the thermos is 2-2.5 m. At this level, there are practically no seasonal temperature fluctuations. The minimum level at which the walls of the trench greenhouse maintain a positive temperature (+4 - +10 degrees) is 1 m. This must be taken into account when drafting.

Now the length and width of the greenhouse pit, buried in the ground. In length, an earthen greenhouse can be anything - everything is limited by the amount of free space on the site. It is not recommended to make a width of more than 5 meters. This is due to the fact that too large a roof area leads to significant heat loss through the roofing material. Heating costs can increase so much that the very point of organizing a greenhouse underground will disappear.

Note:the thermos greenhouse should be oriented from west to east. So the plants will be provided with the maximum amount of sunlight, heat.

Do-it-yourself construction of a thermos winter greenhouse, ready-made pit

Construction of walls and roof of an earthen greenhouse

It is impossible to leave the walls earthen, they must be covered with brickwork or a reinforced concrete belt should be made around the entire perimeter. This work has two goals:

Prevention of shedding of earthen walls.
The organization of a reliable support for the roof, which is usually assembled from a professional pipe, weighs a lot.

The roof frame, as mentioned above, is more often mounted from pipes. You can use a beam, but in this case you will have to install additional support pillars in the center of the thermos. The roof structure can be gable or arched - it all depends on personal preferences. For a gable, we must make reinforcing braces, the arched arches must be double. So the frame of the winter greenhouse in the ground will be able to withstand significant snow loads.

Roof frame assembly

Note: polycarbonate is usually taken as a roofing material. Theoretically, glass can be used, but there is a chance that it will not support the weight of a snow cushion in winter. Polycarbonate is taken thick, 16 mm. You can put it in two layers at once. The light transmission capacity of the thermos greenhouse roof will decrease slightly (10%), the structure will experience additional load. However, the energy efficiency will be greatly improved.

We make an earthen thermos greenhouse with our own hands, the video shows a story about the use of fixed formwork made of polystyrene:

Thermal insulation and heating of an earthen thermos greenhouse

First you need to treat the walls with a hydrophobic composition. It can be a bituminous mixture or any other. We fill large gaps with mounting foam. Next, we cover all surfaces with foil polystyrene foam - it will serve as a heater, the shiny side will reflect heat into the room. It is impossible to use mineral wool here, since in case of accidental ingress of water, it will lose its heat-preserving properties.

A greenhouse in the ground without heating will not fully function, therefore, a warm floor is made for heating. It can be water or electric - it all depends on the technical capabilities. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion is poured, a system of water pipes or electrical cables is laid out. Reinforcing mesh is placed on top. The floor is poured with a cement-sand mixture (3/1). The organization of heating the greenhouse with air underground is usually not required.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foil