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For special book lovers, sometimes old books can be a serious problem! The reason for this mold on books. Throwing away a book is a crime! Leaving is also scary, as the mold “devours” nearby standing books. How to be? Especially if the books are very old and thus surprisingly valuable! It often happens that moldy antique books are sold at auctions. The value of their content cannot be overestimated. But I would not really like to buy publications affected by the fungus. How to be? Is there any way to get rid of such a scourge as mold on books? The answer is yes. You ask HOW? Here are some tips.

First, the book must be isolated from other publications. You don't want the "infection" to spread all over the bookcase!

Secondly, the book must be properly dried. For this paper friend in sunny weather, it is best to place somewhere in the shade and in a well-ventilated place. It can be a box with holes, a hanging net for vegetables, perhaps just a window sill with an open window.

Thirdly, you need to take a cotton napkin and moisten it with formalin solution (2-3%). The solution is sold in pharmacies. As an alternative, it is sometimes used ammonia. The napkin should be properly wrung out and gently wipe the infected area of ​​the book. Next, a dry, thick sheet of white paper should be applied to the cleaned page, which will absorb excess moisture.

Fourth, dry the book again.

It happens that the mold eats into the paper so much that one wipe is not enough to completely destroy it. In this case, the whole procedure should be repeated. Here I would like to note that many are mistaken in thinking that mold can be removed by simply wiping the book with a damp cloth. Alas! In a similar way, you can only help the further spread of mold. The pores of the fungus will penetrate deeper into the paper and will continue to "eat" the book.

mold on books often accompanied by an unpleasant smell of dampness and old "sick" paper. Is there a way to get rid of this smell? Yes there is. True, unlike the fight against mold, it takes a longer amount of time.

First, you need to dry the book in the same way that has already been described.

Secondly, carefully inspect the publication for mold. And if it is found, then "cure" your book friend.

Thirdly, find or make a box or box the size of a book. Pour two packs of baking soda into the bottom and smooth out.

Fourth, place the book in a net and hang it over the baking soda. Or place a book stand in the drawer along with the book. You can build supports for the book. The main condition here is that the book should be above the soda, but not in contact with it. And the air in the box should move freely.

The smell usually disappears after 3-4 weeks. During this procedure, it is advisable to check the book once a week for the appearance of new mold.

At the end of the article, I would like to add that mold can also appear on relatively new books. To avoid such a sad result, you need to carry out preventive maintenance of the bookcase at least once a month: vacuum the shelves, wipe the books with a damp cloth, sometimes it would not hurt to wipe them with a formalin solution (2-3%), ventilate the room and generally monitor the conditions for storing books.

Do not place books in rooms with high humidity. For example, in the garage. It should be remembered that book friends are very favorable conditions life when the humidity in the room is from 55 to 65 percent, and the temperature is from +15 to +21 degrees Celsius.

Successful treatment of your favorite Books!

The library store has a separate locker for old books, I always hang out there. And tormented, I leave - because I won’t read, they are not always on the topic for me, but in order to tear them to pieces and put them on art projects - it’s already superfluous, because I already dragged these books a whole huge box plus mountains on the bottom shelf. If the deal is on sale and time is running out, I buy because I know that the unsold will go to waste paper: (I'd rather use it for an art project.

But besides the store (open every day) and sales (four times a year), in the hall at the exit there is also a locker where books are stored for free pickup - either specific (technical), or not very popular (or already massively available), or old and unpresentable. That's where I often pick up old and unpresentable ones. I can't get past the yellowed cuts, old paper, embossing on the covers - and especially the inscriptions inside. It turns out that I collect books in which, in a faded unusual handwriting, someone congratulates unknown recipients on Christmas in 1906, or on their birthday in July 1924. (I also collect all sorts of clippings, notes and photographs found in old books :) By chance - but I already have a small box of these yellowed time machine greetings)

So. I took a book with mold just in this free bookcase, I was delighted that it was for children and that it was from 1906. And at home I saw this black growth and spots: (Under the pressure of the family and you, the book had to be thrown into the trash: (But I took it off at the dustbin, and also carefully tore off the pages with pictures. The pictures there were like in our old books - black and white, occasionally inserted on different paper and with the page number the illustration belongs to.

And here are the photos for you.
Adventures of Dick and Dolly:

Some Florence gave it to someone for Christmas in 1926. You see - the first pages of the binding are eaten away by something very badly.


We turn the page - there it is.

And this is the frontispiece. They praise the author, they report about the illustrator. pictures like this in the book - on coated paper, inserts with a link to the page.

Year of issue. Where, I wonder, did she lie until Christmas 1926? Florence kept it for 16 years and then gave it away?

Here is a spread with a picture :) I usually even read these old children's and teenage books after bringing them, but then I was strictly told - do not even flip through inside the house!

And this is the back endpaper: (See how it is eaten by mold and fungus?

And here is a piece of that black, rough, that has grown on the edge.

So, alas, the book went to the dustbin.
(But I have all the pictures :))

Mold often appears in damp rooms, especially after winter, during wet summers, and in spring. There are different types of fungus, some affect not only defenseless wooden surfaces, but also justify colonies on concrete, plaster, and wallpaper. This greatly worsens appearance rooms, spoils materials: plaster becomes porous, wallpaper peels off, wood rots, etc.

But the most unpleasant thing is that moss, mold, fungi negatively affect a person’s condition, with prolonged exposure they cause asthma, tuberculosis, and even oncological tumors. Human lungs are the most sensitive to adverse effects, most of the capillaries and blood vessels are concentrated in them.

Why is it difficult to remove mold from walls?

To begin with, it is important to eliminate the causes:

Poor ventilation

Flaw fresh air and sunlight

high humidity

Temperature up to 20 degrees

Normal room temperature, comfortable for a person, is more than 20 degrees, about 23-25. But sometimes there are cool zones in the room where the heat does not pass.

It is not uncommon for people, leaving their dacha or leaving a country house, closing it for the whole winter, to find whole layers of mold upon their return in the next summer season.

Mold tends to spread quickly under favorable conditions for it, it appears in the form of small dots in the corners at the very top, spreads along the ceiling, walls, floor.

The difficulty lies in the fact that pathogenic microflora is very fond of hard-to-reach places, so you have to not only look for the most effective means, but also carry out manipulations in uncomfortable conditions, for example, standing on a ladder against a wall.

4 ways to remove mold from the wall

Anti-mold bleach

If you have to deal with a polished smooth surface like tiles, glass, then bleach will help. It is poisonous to microorganisms, however, it is also harmful to humans. Therefore, it is necessary to treat the affected areas only in a respirator and rubber gloves. Ideally, you should wear a special rubberized protective suit, since bleach splashes irritate the skin and can ruin clothing fabrics.

1. You need to take 4 liters of water
2. 150 ml
3. mix well
4. Pour into a spray bottle or dip a sponge into the solution.

You need to treat the surface with the composition, let it dry for about an hour, then brush off the dried mold with a dry brush.

Getting rid of mold with baking soda

Baking soda. It is also effective, it can be applied not only to tiles, tiles, glass, but also to porous surfaces. Plus, it does not change the color of the material, does not lighten the texture. You need to take about half a liter of water, dissolve 1 teaspoon of soda, pour it into a container with a spray bottle and treat all surfaces. It is not necessary to let the composition dry, you can proceed immediately. But unlike bleach, it is worth treating surfaces affected by fungi at least twice after a certain interval of time.

Cleaning mold with hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide at 3%. Peroxide does not have to be diluted with water, additional manipulations must be carried out, it is necessary to immediately pour it into a container with a sprayer and treat the affected areas, leave for 20 minutes. Then it remains only to wipe dry.

How to get rid of mold on walls with tea tree oil?

Tea tree oil. Perhaps this is a way for aesthetes, since the oil is more expensive than bleach, peroxide and soda, but it absolutely does not irritate the skin, fills the room with a pleasant fragrant smell. For all its “glamour”, the oil does not tolerate fungi, so the remedy is considered effective. You need to take 2 teaspoons of the product, dilute it in about 500 milliliters of water and pour it into a container with a spray bottle. Then spray on the affected areas. The oil will be absorbed, it will also serve as an excellent prophylactic against the subsequent appearance and reproduction of pathogenic flora, so you need to leave it on the surface.

Other mold removal features

If foci appear, then it is often necessary to replace some structures, rather than constantly treat them with protective properties. For example, a carpet that has not been dried or processed for a long time is easier to replace with a new one. The same applies to old tiles, flooring, finishing materials on walls and ceilings.

But, of course, each case is individual. If the finishing materials are new enough, it will be a pity, and it is not financially feasible to replace them with new ones. If there is a firm belief that the causes have been eliminated, then you can simply wash the foci with a special agent.

By replacing ventilation, eliminating condensate, replacing window openings that do not meet standards, it can be stated that the risk of fungi and mold is significantly reduced, so the affected surface can simply be cleaned with ordinary cleaning products.

If it is difficult to do these operations on your own, then contact the cleaning company RS-Cleaning - we will be happy to help.

Mold removal service

Unfortunately, with all the variety of advice and folk remedies, it cannot be stated that these actions will have a result. It often happens that after the season, the fungi again make themselves felt. This happens because improvised means alone will not be able to remove all the foci, they are often located in hard-to-reach places between tiles, in cracks under the ceiling, in complex structures in the bathroom.

Considering that it is far from always possible to solve problems with ventilation, then you should be prepared for the reappearance of the “enemy”.

My friend from Ukraine 256irism kindly allowed me to copy a very interesting post from her LiveJournal. It will be useful to all book lovers, and especially to book lovers.
Under the cut is an article about the restoration of books on their own.

From mold On books, you can get rid of formalin diluted with water - an aqueous solution of formaldehyde. A cotton or gauze swab is moistened with formalin and squeezed strongly, then the mold is carefully removed; at the same time, the mold should not be rubbed or smeared on a sheet of paper. The treatment is repeated again with the second same tampon.

But what to do if mushrooms encroach not only on your bodily, but also on spiritual food? Let's say you open your favorite volume of works by K. Marx, and there ... mold! In no case should you destroy books, unless, of course, you want to lay a new mycelium in the room. You should also not rub this abomination with a rag, it will only eat deeper into the paper. The book, like the bread box, alas, will have to be dried, ventilated, and then the affected areas should be treated with a 2-3% formalin solution. Don't despair if the book is already stained with fungus. These stains are destroyed as follows: after carefully soaking the stain with hydrogen peroxide, put sheets of thick white paper between the pages, leave for a while, and then remove the excess peroxide with a blotter. It is possible that you will have to repeat several times. But, in order to prevent the appearance of mold on books, they need to be read more often. Or at least ventilate and dry. And it is better not to put bookcases, and indeed any furniture, against a damp wall.

If the book gets into a damp room or for a long time in a humid atmosphere, it is often affected by mold. Books with mold spots (multi-colored velvety coatings) must be urgently isolated from other books, thoroughly dried and disinfected.

More than 200 species of molds are known to infect books. The appearance and growth of mold (and this requires appropriate conditions!) Are accompanied by the formation of colored spots. On the spine and covers there are raids of a grayish color, on paper and cardboard, as well as on fabrics, the raids have a powdery velvety appearance. Areas of paper affected by mold become pigmented, break down and fall out over time.

In no case do not try to erase mold stains with a rag: mold spores will rub into the pores of the paper and the book will be completely ruined. Mold spots should be moistened with a 2-3% aqueous solution of formalin, which kills mold, and the remaining age spots are discolored with a 3-5% hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be replaced with a solution of hydroperite (the latter tablets are sold in pharmacies). To control the quality of bleaching, a sheet of white paper covered with a Plexiglas plate or a film of transparent colorless polyethylene is placed under the processed sheet of the book. The stain is wetted with the prepared solution, and after five minutes the excess liquid is removed with filter paper. If necessary, this process is repeated many times.

It should be remembered that formalin treatment is best done with a cotton or gauze swab. The tampon moistened with formalin is strongly squeezed out and the mold spots are treated with it, collecting the mold to the center of the stain and grabbing it with the tampon. A used swab is not suitable for reuse. After removing the mold, it is necessary to once again process the entire page of the book with formalin, after which it should be wiped with a dry, clean swab. It is not bad to wipe with a clean swab the endpapers and sheets of the book adjacent to the sheets affected by mold. In the absence of formalin, ammonia is used, but in this case the effect of the treatment will be somewhat worse. The “cured” book is dried at room temperature.

Work with formalin in rubber gloves or fingertips, and all operations are recommended to be carried out in a well-ventilated area, wearing a gauze bandage.

In the future, preventive inspection of books should be carried out, as a rule, in spring and autumn, paying special attention to those that have been affected by insects or mold. From time to time, a sheet-by-sheet examination of books is necessary, especially in cases where the conditions for their storage are not entirely favorable.

Iompathe that prevention - The best way fight the disease. Therefore, we will make sure that cabinets or shelves with books do not stand against a damp or cold wall. Noticing dampness, you should dry the wall, shelves, the books themselves well and treat the places where dampness was noticed with a 2-3% formalin solution. If damp spots are noticed on the books, but the mold has not yet appeared, try to influence these places with a 5-10% solution of potassium alum, and then dry the pages thoroughly. Stains after such operations should disappear.

Dirt diverse, and we ourselves often do not really know where it was picked up. And when removing stains, it is important first of all to determine the nature and composition of the stains. Of course, it is better not to plant spots, but if this happens, remember that old spots and those whose nature has not been established are very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to completely remove.

If the book cover is dirty, you can wash it. Naturally, in this case, it should be covered with waterproof binding material. Do this with a damp swab moistened with a solution of soap or washing powder. After washing, remove the remnants of the soap solution from the surface with a damp cloth. Try to do all wet processing of the binding carefully, making sure that water does not get on the book block.

When a book cover or binding is made of calico, it can be refreshed with an ink eraser (abrasive-filled eraser), but it is better not to stain it at all, just like a paper cover. Refreshing the latter is possible if the printing inks with which it is made allow. However, to do this, the cover will have to be separated from the book block or peeled off from the binding, after which it can be washed in warm soapy water with a soft flute. After drying the paper cover, it can be put back in place...

Fingerprints and pencil marks, as well as dirt on the edges of books, are removed by lightly rubbing the paper in these places with a crumb of fresh white bread, as is done when cleaning drawings. The stain will disappear the faster the more often you change the slices of bread. For the same purpose, you can use a soft eraser to erase a pencil from paper.

If this treatment does not give tangible results, wash off the fingerprints with a swab moistened with a solution of soap or washing powder, and then remove the solution with a damp cloth. Do not be afraid of repeated wet processing - paper endures! But under the sheet to be processed, place a waterproof gasket. After washing, dry the washed sheets between filter papers as recommended above.

Heavily soiled trimmings can be restored to their original cleanliness by treating them with fine-grained sandpaper, after clamping the book block between two boards with clamps. In this case, trimming should be cleaned along the edges of the sheets with light pressure, and paper dust should be regularly removed with a flute or vacuum cleaner.

Grease stains are removed with refined gasoline, carbon tetrachloride (commonly used along with trichlorethylene in dry cleaning clothes), or various solvents for oils and fats. It is only necessary to make sure that the preparations used do not dissolve the printing ink.

If the grease stain is fresh, you can iron the stain several times with a warm iron through tissue or filter paper until it absorbs all the grease. It will not help - the stain is sprinkled with chalk (tooth powder) or burnt magnesia, covered with white paper and heated with an iron.

Fat stains on the margins of the pages can be removed using the above solvents mixed with chalk or magnesia in a ratio of 1: 1 to a mushy state. After complete drying, the composition that has absorbed the fat is carefully cleaned off. Sometimes the operation of applying the slurry and removing it has to be applied repeatedly. Remains of chalk or magnesia are removed with a flute or a damp swab. In the latter case, drying is necessary.

Good results in removing grease stains are obtained by using purified turpentine heated in a water bath to 80 ° C. A drop of turpentine is applied with a brush to the greasy spot, after which this place is covered with filter paper and ironed with a heated iron. Naturally, 2-3 layers of filter paper should be laid under the processed sheet of the book.

Stains from stearin can be easily removed with alcohol (cologne), followed by smoothing the sheets of the book with an iron through filter paper.

Of the modern household chemicals, Stain Remover-2 (a mixture of equal volumes of acetone, ethanol and trichlorethylene) or compositions containing surfactants (Oilin, ZZhM-1, Edamol, Evapol ”), which are drugs of group action, that is, removing stains from oil paints, pitch, tar, wax, all kinds of oils, greases, etc.

However, use them with caution, as they may interact with printing dyes.

When working with gasoline and organic solvents, good ventilation and compliance with fire safety regulations are required!

Color spots of unknown origin should be identified first.

Rust, blood, coffee, tea, fruits, wine stains have brown color.

If the stain is from blood, then a solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide applied (1-2 drops) to the surface of the stain will bubble.

Rust spots, when exposed to 5% hydrochloric acid and dried with filter paper pre-treated with 50% potassium thiocyanate or ammonium thiocyanate (available in photo shops), give a pink color.

Tea, coffee, fruit juices, red wine, when treated with a 2% solution of ferric chloride (not chloride!) Give a blue-black color.

Having established the nature of the stains, you can safely proceed to their removal.

A fresh blood stain is removed with a swab moistened with warm water. Dried stains are moistened with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution, and then with a 3% ammonia solution, after which they must be treated with soapy water and warm water. To remove fresh blood stains, you can also use any detergent for washing in cold water (for example, "Ritsa"), and to remove old stains - liquid paste "Oka". It is enough to keep the sheets of the book smeared with this preparation in a warm place for several hours so that the stains disappear, but it is necessary that the paste be moist all this time, since the enzymes contained in the paste act only in the presence of water.

Rust stains are the most common on the pages of books. This is the result of pins, paper clips, hairpins and other iron objects getting into the book.

Such stains are removed with solutions of oxalic or citric acid, as well as a 15% aqueous solution of potassium oxalate. In the absence of the latter, a solution of acidic potassium oxalate can be prepared. To do this, 126 g of oxalic acid and 69 g of potash (potassium carbonate) are dissolved in 1 liter of water. It is better to dissolve each component separately in 0.5 l of water, and then mix the resulting solutions. Before use, the working solution should be heated to 70 °C. After removing stains, treated areas should be thoroughly rinsed with water.

A 2% solution of hydrochloric acid or a solution heated to 80-90 ° C will also help get rid of rust spots. acetic acid s the same concentration. Only in this case, do not forget to wipe the acid-treated surface with a 3% ammonia solution at the end.

Good results are obtained by using a mixture of 10% oxalic acid solution, 10% citric acid solution, sodium chloride and water, taken in a ratio of 1:1:1:8 (by weight). This mixture is moistened with a rusty stain, after which it is exposed to hot steam for several minutes. The surface treated with the mixture must be washed first with soapy water and then with clean water.

This method of removing old rusty stains has also proven itself well, in which the stain is first treated with 2% hydrochloric acid, and then with 10% sodium hydrosulfite solution. (Sodium hydrosulfite is used in photography - do not confuse it with hyposulfite!). After removing the rust, rinse this area with clean water and wipe with a damp swab (the solution is prepared immediately before use).

In household chemical stores to remove rust stains, you can find "Antirzhavin" or "Rust Spot Remover", the action of which is based on the transfer of pigmented water-insoluble iron compounds into soluble, slightly colored compounds. By the way, Antirzhavin contains hydrofluoric and oxalic acids, which makes it possible to successfully use the drug also to remove silicate glue, which was suggested to be removed in the literature on book restoration only by mechanically removing the surface layers of paper impregnated with this glue. If the color of the paper changes after Antprzhavshyum treatment, wipe this place with a solution of ammonia.

Ink stains are the result of either the reader’s careless handling of the book, or deliberate, but at the same time “professionally necessary” damage to books by second-hand book dealers. It is the working notes of the latter, carried out on colored artistic bindings, endpapers and dust jackets, that disfigure the face of the book. And there is absolutely no place for them on antique books. It would be much better if second-hand booksellers would use labels-stickers in the manner of postage stamps, but so far this issue has not been resolved ...

Removing traces of ink from paper is usually not an easy task.

Traces of a ballpoint pen can in some cases be removed with a cotton swab dipped in a mixture of equal amounts of glycerin and ethyl alcohol (sometimes with the addition of a small amount of alkali solution). The swab should be changed several times during the cleaning process, and after removing the dirt, be sure to wipe this place with a damp swab.

In many book restoration manuals, to remove ink stains, it is recommended to treat them with solutions of citric or oxalic acid (sometimes lemon juice). Alas! Such processing gives tangible results only in some cases when you have to deal with blue or pale blue ink. But worth a try...

Prepare a strong solution of oxalic acid (1 part acid (by weight) and 4 parts alcohol, which can be replaced with triple cologne or vodka), soak a thick filter paper in it and apply it to the ink spot. The operation should be repeated until complete removal traces of ink. If there is any difficulty in obtaining oxalic acid, replace this solution with another containing 1 part citric acid (by weight), 1 part potassium alum, and 4 parts water.

Sometimes it is possible to discolor the ink stain with a 20% hydrogen peroxide solution.

However, this technology provides the most effective way to remove ink marks on book pages. First, the stain is treated with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate), prepared immediately before use. Then, as soon as the paper he treated turns brown, apply a 5-10% aqueous solution of oxalic acid to this place, which can be replaced by solutions of citric or acetic acids of the same concentration or 10% sodium hydrosulfite solution. For getting good results the operation has to be repeated many times.

When using such strong oxidizing agents as, for example, potassium permanganate for cleaning, it may happen that fragments of book sheets treated with reagents turn out to be lighter than the rest of them. To even out the color, it is recommended to completely process the entire sheet of the book with these reagents (bleaching) or retouch excessively highlighted areas. Impeccable retouching is possible only if there is a sufficient set of bold colored pencils and pastel leads, which have to be used not in their pure form, but to be composed of a mixture of their powders that are suitable in color compositions. After applying the mixture selected in the form of a powder to the end of the shading (a wooden stick with a cotton swab at the end), lightly rub the dye into the places to be retouched. If you now iron these places through damp filter paper with an iron heated to 80-100 ° C, the dye will be fixed.

Removal of stains is also possible with the use of household chemicals. If you need to destroy stains from coffee, tea, ink, ink, felt-tip pen, fruits, juices, wine, flowers, herbs, use the Catanol preparation, however, given the difficulty of acquiring such a universal remedy, try either not to leave such stains, or follow conjuncture on the shelves of household chemicals and use those stain removers that the trade offers. One thing is certain: you will always succeed if you strictly follow the instructions for using this or that remedy.

stains from food products(mixtures of proteins and carbohydrates) will completely disappear after treatment with Fermentol or Subtinol preparations, the latter being more effective.

Dust is the main enemy of the book. It gathers in those places where the volumes are loose or come out with spines from the general row of books. The air flow with dust particles always present in it also changes the direction of its movement in these places and forms small vortices. The force of inertia ejects individual dust particles from it, which settle on the spines and edges of books.

Therefore, it is quite natural that books that are not protected by dust jackets or cardboard cases, with unpainted edges, will suffer the most from this. Household dust, in addition to aesthetic and hygienic inconvenience, serves as a source of damage to books by spores of fungi and mold, the vital activity of which is activated in the presence of moisture.

Once a month, it is recommended to clean the edges and spines of books with a vacuum cleaner or wipe the edges and paper covers with a dry gauze or knitted cloth or dust-catching cloth, and the spines of the bindings with a damp soft cloth (preferably moistened with a 2% aqueous solution of formalin, sold in pharmacies in the form of 10% solution, which should be diluted with water accordingly). With partial cleaning, the dust is removed only from the outer surfaces of the books, and with full cleaning, even from the spines of the bindings, which is quite simple to do with a brush or a flat brush - a flute.

You can often hear the question: which is more convenient - a bookcase or a rack? It all depends on your capabilities: racks require less space than cabinets or shelves, and you can make them yourself according to your own drawings, taking into account the characteristics of your apartment, the number and dimensions of the books included in the library. The only condition in the manufacture of the rack is a mandatory gap of 1.5-2 cm above the upper edges of the books. Such a gap is necessary for the preservation of the spines of books when they are removed from the shelves of the rack and for the “breathing” of books.

Put Tom in one row. The books located in the second row worsen the storage conditions of the entire collection and, as a rule, are “dead”, as they fall out of use.

Books in magazines up to 350 mm high are stored vertically on the bottom edge (the design of the spine and binding can withstand the mass of the block); large format books and heavy albums are best kept lying down in stacks of 5-6 pieces each. In no case should books be stored in stacks on the floor, on window sills, in pantries, on mezzanines and in other places not adapted for this. When moving, it is better to transport books packed in cardboard boxes, suitcases or boxes, but in no case in packs tied with twine ...

Bookshelves, shelves and cabinets should be placed perpendicular to the walls; having windows, that is, so that only diffused light falls on the books.

It is necessary to protect the book from the sun, since ultraviolet rays have a destructive effect on all materials of the book. For the summer, it is advisable to cover the books on the shelves with paper, curtain them with a cloth so that direct sunlight does not fall on them.

Some book lovers spend a lot of effort and money on glazing shelves. Yes, this protects books to some extent from dust and sun exposure, but we should not forget that a dense, but not close, arrangement of volumes quite copes with the first task, and designers also believe that a large number of glazed shelves do not decorate the interior.

According to experts, the ideal conditions for storing books are as follows: air temperature 18-22 ° C, relative humidity 50-65% (by the way, the same conditions are comfortable for humans). Do not place bookcases and bookcases near heating appliances: paper is a very capricious material and sudden changes in temperature and humidity will accelerate its aging, as a result of which it will become brittle. In case of high humidity, put bags of silica gel (or any other active moisture absorber, such as table salt or anhydrous sodium hyposulfite used in photography to prepare fixer) in bookcases, and if the air in the room is too dry, it is recommended to use a household humidifier of any kind. type.

From time to time, look through books - whether insects have wound up in them: grinder beetles, leather beetles, moths, book lice, etc. Some of them feed on paper, others prefer bindings, the larvae of others are not averse to eating glue. Most often, book pests appear in cases where books on the shelves are too dense or are not often removed from the shelves, and also when the room is rarely cleaned.

Especially dangerous are the larvae of grinder beetles and domestic moths. They develop in books near the covers, along the margins of the book block, near the spine. At the end of the development cycle, the larva gnaws an exit hole in paper and binding covers, creating channels.

If there is a suspicion that the book is infested with insects, tap the bottom of the spine of a half-opened book on a blank sheet of paper. If the presence of live larvae or insects on paper confirms your suspicion, be sure to disinfest infected books.

In this case, insecticides are usually used to combat household insects "Prima" or "Dichlorvos" (drugs are produced and marketed, in the form of liquids or in aerosol packages). The insect-infested book is placed in plastic bag and treated with the drug. In the absence of aerosols, 2-3 drops of a 2% aqueous solution of chlorophos are instilled into the spine of the book. The book processed in this way is kept in a sealed bag for 3 days.

You can also put a fan-shaped open book on the lower edge in a hermetically sealed box with the Antimol preparation for 7-10 days.

When insects appear in books, carefully inspect all places of their possible accumulation in cabinets, shelves, baseboards and ventilation grilles and treat them with Prima preparations, and after a while with Dichlorvos.

It is necessary to remember the toxicity of pesticides and strictly adhere to the instructions for their use.

Mold problems can be everywhere you live. Sometimes you see it, sometimes you don't. Sometimes it's black, sometimes it's white. You can buy specific products to fight mold, but there are common products in your household that will help you deal with this problem. You are already armed - get rid of mold forever.

Steps

Attack on the Causes of Mold

The main cause of mold is moisture. Moisture problem is mold. If you've removed the mold but haven't solved the moisture problem, you've saved the conditions for the mold to come back. Clean and dry wet areas for 24 hours to prevent mold growth.

• Mold is often present in bathrooms (due to showers) and kitchens (due to sinks). Be sure to wipe off excess water on the sink and open bathroom windows after a shower.

1. Contact professionals if the mold has spread to an area of ​​​​more than 3 square meters. m. If you are dealing with serious mold - more than 3 square meters - it is better to call professionals to remove and clean it. Professionals use highly efficient detergents and have adequate protection against inhalation of mold spores.

   Remove absorbent or porous materials. Absorbent or porous materials such as drywall or ceiling tiles may need to be thrown away if mold is a serious enough problem. Mold can fill in the tiny cracks and pores in these materials, and it can be difficult to completely remove the mold. Cleaning in this case will only temporarily inhibit mold growth; if you don't completely remove these surfaces from your home, mold will keep coming back.

   Do not paint over moldy surfaces. This “patch” treatment is not effective at all. On surfaces such as walls or tiles that have been mold painted, the paint will not adhere very well; the paint will just peel off because there was no clean surface.

   • Make sure you thoroughly wash and disinfect the moldy area, remove any excess moisture, and wait a day or two before painting.

2. Wear appropriate protection when cleaning. Because mold contains airborne spores, it is important to apply proper protection when cleaning moldy surfaces. In most cases, mold is harmless, but there are many different types of mold, some of which can pose health risks. Be sure to wear:

   • Respirator. It is available at hardware stores and relatively cheap.
   • Goggles to protect your eyes from contact with spores.
   • Gloves.

   Using different cleaning products

   Try a mixture of chlorine bleach and warm water. Take a cup of chlorine bleach for every 4 liters of warm water Take a medium-hard toothbrush, dip it in the bleach solution and scrub the mold stain. Be sure to dry the surface as thoroughly as possible, as moisture encourages mold and mildew growth.

   • For hard to reach areas, pour the bleach solution into a spray bottle. Spray the bleach solution directly onto the mold. Then clean with a brush.
   • This solution is best used for moisture and mildew found in bathrooms, kitchens and other domestic areas with tiles or non-porous surfaces.
   • Chlorine bleach is a very effective mold and mildew spore killer. The active ingredient in bleach, sodium hypochlorite, is also the main ingredient in many mold removers.

3. Use vinegar. Pour undiluted white or apple cider vinegar into a spray bottle. Spray the vinegar on the moldy surface and scrub the affected area thoroughly with a brush. Dry the surface completely.

   • Only use vinegar on non-porous surfaces such as tile, not wood.
   • Unlike chlorine bleach, vinegar is non-toxic and does not emit harmful fumes. Vinegar is a weak acid, it is 80% effective in killing mold, fungus and their particles.

4. Use a borax solution to kill and inhibit mold growth. Take about one cup of borax for every 4 liters of warm water. Dip the brush into the borax solution and scrub any mold spots. Wipe off excess borax and water with a clean rag.

   • Use borax only on non-porous surfaces. Tiled bathrooms and kitchens will clean better than wooden surfaces.
   • Although borax is toxic if ingested, it is a natural cleaner, does not emit fumes and should not contain additional chemicals. It is effective both in getting rid of existing mold and in preventing further mold growth.

5. Use ammonia. First, make sure the product you are using is pure ammonia. Then mix one part pure ammonia with one part water and pour into a spray bottle. Spray the ammonia solution on the moldy surface and scrub it. Wipe off excess ammonia with a clean towel.

6. Try using baking soda, either as a paste or on its own. Baking soda is both mild (meaning it's safe for your entire family and pets) and effective. It's known as a gentle household cleaner and helps freshen the air (no wonder it's used as a deodorant). It can be used in two main ways:

   • When mixed with water and vinegar. Add two tablespoons of baking soda to 200-250 gr. water and mix thoroughly. Pour into a spray bottle and apply to moldy surfaces such as bathroom tiles. Take another spray bottle, fill it with vinegar and spray on the same surface. (This should result in a chemical reaction releasing carbon dioxide.) Vinegar is often used in conjunction with baking soda because the mixture kills different kinds mold.
   • Apply baking soda directly to the moldy surface. It works especially well on porous surfaces such as wood furniture or drywall. When the baking soda gets into the wet surface, wipe it off.

7. Use hydrogen peroxide. Purchase a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution and add undiluted to a spray bottle. Apply to moldy surface, wait at least 10 minutes, and then scrub. Wipe off excess moisture to prevent mold growth.

   • Hydrogen peroxide is a great alternative to bleach and other strong cleaning solutions that release harmful toxic fumes. Hydrogen peroxide is also effective in removing mold stains.
   • Hydrogen peroxide can be used on various surfaces. It can be safely used on clothing, floors, lamps, walls, and even appliances. Just test on a small area before applying the peroxide all over, as it can discolour clothes and other surfaces.